Ankober Escapades: Tukuls, Tales, and Tranquil Valleys

Nestled amidst the breathtaking landscapes of Ethiopia, the historical city of Ankober is a great option for a one-night staycation away from the noise and hectic-ness of Addis Ababa. (Photos mostly by Joe, Tabs and the people who were on the trip).

After a four hour (bumpy) ride (including an hour stuck in the last, very steep stretch of road leading up to Ankober Palace Lodge, we were there, arriving just in time for a few beers and dinner.

Perched on a hill overlooking the magnificent Rift Valley, the Palace Lodge stands as a testament to the grandeur of the past. Ankober had been Ethiopia's old capital, when it was still the kingdom of Shoa. The lodge's grounds, with their faded glory, were a reminder of its regal history. Emperor Menelik then moved the capital to Addis Ababa and the significance of Ankober faded away. Still, I can imagine the pulsating sense of regal heritage, the hustle and bustle of palace people, the echoes of an old Ethiopia carried by the cold breeze as you tread the steps of the lodge and gaze at the villages, farmlands and rolling mountainscapes.

The hill is wrapped in cold mist; juniper trees cover the grounds, adding their distinctive wood-sap scent to the already magical atmosphere.

The accommodation at the lodge is humble, reflecting the traditional Ethiopian "tukul" style huts that dot the premises,

allowing us to immerse ourselves in the rustic charm of the surroundings. We gathered in the main hall for Ethiopian dinner - traditional Ethiopian platters, "beyanat," featuring injera, shiro, and lentils.

In the immense quiet of the hill at night, the staff lit a deliciously warm bonfire. We gathered around, chatting late into the night. I can't emphasise enough how lovely the quiet of the vast night is: Addis is a cauldron of endless noises - honking cars, loud people, construction - and it's only when you escape to the countryside that you realise how constant, and stressful, the sound pollution is.

The next day was equally lovely. Dawn broke over a misty valley and rolling hills. The wood-scented air had a cold, crisp bite to it. The smell of burning wood came through from somewhere. I imagined mornings at the Palace: kitchen staff running around with big pots and pans to prepare for the day, the stern Emperor and his consort and children, wrapped in a regal gabi, overlooking their kingdom from atop the hill.

The guys who were here the day before said that they had the most impressive views: a thick sea of clouds beneath them.

There's a small lookout point near the guardian angel tree. I watched pale slivers of sun break through the thick mist that envelopped the forest canopy. Grivet monkeys jumped from branch to branch.

Can you see the monkey?

After a rather nice breakfast of local porridge, fruit and toast, overlooking the valley, the others went to explore the village (again, these pictures are from them, I wasn't very good at taking pictures I'm afraid!)

Back at the lodge, before we packed up to head home, we decided to explore the Palace's treasures . During the day the Lodge looks slightly less impressive but the books, artefacts and antiques that not only gave us glimpses of the past but were also linked to the family history of our friend Huey.