Oh, Ethiopia

Doho Lodge is a prime example of how Ethiopia isn't making the most of its tourism potential. Some places in Ethiopia are frankly stunning and unique. But the lack of attention and vision lets it down a bit, frankly.

^ bird at Doho. It wasn't shy at all and came at us for our breadcrumbs.

Tabs successfully talked me out of my plans of wallowing over Easter weekend. We packed up and headed to Doho Hot Springs and Lodge, about 4 hours away from Addis Ababa. It's a tedious, dusty road, used by trucks headed to Djibouti through the Afar region.

^Checkpoint. Hectic.

Doho Lodge itself is atrociously bad. You pay $60 for a basic single room (resident rate as of April 2021) or $100 for a double - you can choose a tent at $35. The area, which could have been made into a stunning retreat with all amenities (thinking Azulik in Tulum, or even Zoma Museum type if we're looking for inspiration closer), was instead left as a scattering of very basic wooden huts on half-hearted dusty lawns, connected by the most uneven footpath my feet have ever had the misfortune to walk on. My toes aren't impressed. For what you're paying, we were also shocked that one of our friends had his phone stolen. So safety is an issue as well.

The restaurant is another kind of special. If you order french fries, expect a wait of at least 3 hours before you are served. I'm not joking. The menu options are limited and you eat because you have to. Bring your own food if you can - they don't even serve fruit or fruit juices at breakfast. The injera and shiro are not great. I didn't think it was possible to get bad shiro and injera in Ethiopia but Doho Lodge managed that. It's so irremediably bad that the only thing you can do is laugh.

And we did plenty of that, by the poolside - the only reason anyone would ever go to Doho.

The beauty of Doho Lodge is that it's the sort of place you should go to with friends - the sort that make you laugh till your belly aches, the sort that insist you venture out when all you want to do is hibernate and wallow (which was my plan for the weekend).

And we couldn't deny that the pools were delicious. They are fed by the hot spring water (it can get uncomfortably hot, actually, and are nestled in a lush green area by a lake surrounded by reeds, exotic birds and shrubs, and the occasional funny grivet monkey. (I found out that you can swim in the lake too, but there can also be hippos lurking in the reeds as Fraser found out).

The blue of the pool contrasting with the lush greenery is a sight for sore eyes - for those accustomed to the dull greyness of Addis Ababa. The shrubs stretch out endlessly into the rolling mountains and it's dreamy and stunning.

Occasionally, colourful birds will flash their feathers and swoop across the lake.

Lounging by the pool like fat lizards, giggling over endless glasses of (awful) gin and sprite and bottles of beer, talking about everything and nothing as the sun starts to set in the marshes. That bit was perfect. Soon, the mosquitoes chased us away and it was time to invest in some bad karma over cards against humanity.

If you want to go, I'd advise (a) tenting so you don't pay an exhorbitant amount for the rooms, although this is still expensive; (b) tacking on the trip to the pools to another trip (eg to Awash Falls) so that Doho Lodge is not the focus of your trip. Driving four hours out of Addis just for this isn't worth it, but if it's at the end or beginning of a trip just to relax in the pool, then it's not too bad and it's one of those things you should see before you leave Ethiopia.